Marrakesh: A Travel Guide You Can Probably Smell

Marrakesh is a city that feels like it was designed by a lamp genius, with a pinch of chaos and a spoonful of beauty. All of your senses will be engaged: perfumed smoke reaches your nose at every second, music comes from nowhere, and the intense colors against the earthy palette of the buildings might make you wonder if they are using a special filter with high saturation colors on everything. If you’re planning a trip to this Moroccan gem, buckle up. You’re in for a ride that’s equal parts magical, delicious, and “wait, how did I end up in this alleyway?”

Here are a few tips for you to enjoy your trip, as well as a 4-day itinerary.

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Getting There: The Calm Before the Storm

First things first: getting to Marrakesh. Most international flights land at Menara Airport, which is just a short drive from the city center. If you can, arrange a transfer with your riad (more on those later) or haggle with a taxi driver like your life depends on it. You have to negotiate the price in advance, to avoid surprises! Spoiler: haggling is a national sport here, and you don’t want to be the rookie who pays triple the going rate 😅.

If you are on a budget or/and feels adventurous, it’s also very easy to take a bus to the city center. I took the bus 19 to Jemaa el-Fna square, which costed around €0.60, both when I was arriving and leaving Marrakesh – even while carrying a large suitcase (there is enough space to it and still be seated). It was a very easy journey both ways, and the drivers were always very helpful and kind.

Once you’re in the city, prepare for sensory overload. Marrakesh is like a kaleidoscope on steroids. The colors! The sounds! The smells! But don’t worry, you’ll adjust. Probably.

Where to Stay: Riads, the Oasis of Calm

In Marrakesh, you will have the most magical experience staying in riads. These are traditional Moroccan homes with interior courtyards, and they’re the perfect antidote to the city’s chaos. Imagine stepping off a dusty, noisy street into a serene paradise filled with orange trees, fountains, and beautiful tiled walls. It’s like Narnia, but with better Wi-Fi.

The patterns and colors inside contrast the plain walls in earthy tones from the outside, which are required to best adapt the buildings to the hot weather. When you enter a riad, it’s like opening the doors to a magical world!

Riads range from budget-friendly to “It seems I just rented a palace 🤔.” Well, nothing says “I’m living my best life” like breakfast on a rooftop terrace overlooking the Atlas Mountains.

The Medina: A Maze of Wonder

Now, let’s talk about the Medina, the heart of Marrakesh. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a labyrinth of narrow alleys and hidden treasures. The traditional commercial center, here you can find the most beautiful craft pieces. It’s also the place where you’ll, eventually, get lost. Google maps is an ally, and getting a travel Sim card for data is highly advisable. But don’t worry—getting lost is part of the experience. Just embrace it. And maybe download an offline map.

The souks (markets) in the Medina are where the magic happens. You’ll find everything from handwoven rugs to spices that smell like a new adventure is about to start. Be prepared to haggle, though. The first price you’re quoted is just the opening move in a negotiation dance that’s as old as time. And remember, it’s all in good fun. If you’re not sweating a little by the end, you’re doing it wrong.

But, be aware that I’ve heard many tales that are just not true: that you are not supposed to make eye contact; that if you touch something you are obliged to buy it; that women should cover everything from ankles to neck in the medina; etc. Although it is a conservative country, Marrakech is highly touristic. So, they are used to different cultures there. Just try to dress as modest as possible, for respect. And if you really don’t want to buy something, don’t waste the time of the sellers – they will think you are interested and just waiting for a lower price if you keep interacting with them!

Jemaa el-Fnaa: The Square That Never Sleeps

No trip to Marrakesh is complete without a visit to Jemaa el-Fnaa, the city’s main square. By day, it’s a relatively calm place where you can sip fresh orange juice and watch snake charmers do their thing (yes, really). But by night, it transforms into a full-blown carnival. Food stalls pop up like mushrooms, serving everything from grilled meats to snail soup (yes, really). As a vegetarian, I refrain from trying everything, but you do you! There are musicians, storytellers, and even the occasional dentist offering impromptu tooth extractions. It’s wild, it’s wonderful, and it’s 100% worth experiencing.

Just a word of caution: if someone tries to hand you a monkey, politely decline.

Food: A Love Letter to Your Taste Buds

Let’s talk about food, because oh my, the food! Moroccan cuisine is an amazing mix of flavors, and Marrakesh is the perfect place to indulge. Start your day with a traditional breakfast of msemen (flaky pancakes) and harira (a kind of soup). Amlou is a local product that really won my heart, a paste made of nuts, argan oil, and honey. For lunch, try a tagine, the iconic slow-cooked stew that’s as delicious as it is Instagram-worthy. And for dinner? Head to one of the food stalls in Jemaa el-Fnaa and feast on grilled lamb, couscous, and enough olives to make a Mediterranean chef weep with joy. In fact, there is an alley full of olive vendors, and you can buy yourself a few for a very affordable price to snack later.

And don’t forget the mint tea. It’s sweet, it’s refreshing, and it’s basically the national drink. Plus, it’s served in tiny glasses that make you feel like a giant.

Tajine

Day Trips: Escape the Madness (Temporarily)

If the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh start to feel like a bit much, fear not. There are plenty of day trips to help you recharge. The Atlas Mountains are just a short drive away, offering stunning hikes and Berber villages where time seems to stand still. Or head to the Ouzoud Waterfalls, where you can swim in crystal-clear pools and watch mischievous monkeys frolic in the trees.

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For something closer to the city, visit the Jardin Majorelle. This botanical garden is a tranquil oasis of cobalt blue and lush greenery, and it’s the perfect place to escape the heat and the crowds. Plus, it was once owned by Yves Saint Laurent, so you can feel fancy just by being there.

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4-Day Itinerary

Finally, here is what you can experience in Marrakesh! You can adapt it for 3 (the most basics) to 5 days, including day trips or relaxation if you have more time.

Day 1: Medina & Historic Landmarks

Be ready to get lost in visual stimuli!

Morning

  • Jemaa el-Fnaa – Start your day at the heart of Marrakech. Stroll around the square before it gets too crowded.
  • Koutoubia Mosque – Admire the stunning architecture of this iconic mosque.
  • Saadian Tombs – A hidden gem with intricate tilework and a fascinating history. The earlier, the better: lines can get pretty long for a long (although totally worth it) visit.
Jemaa el-Fnaa  market
Saadian Tombs
Inside the Saadian Tombs

Afternoon

  • Bahia Palace – A masterpiece of Moroccan architecture, full of colorful tiles and peaceful courtyards.
  • El Badi Palace – Explore the ruins of this once-grand palace and see the storks that nest there.

If you prefer, you can book a guided tour to learn more about their history (in addition to not risk getting lost on the way):

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Evening

  • Sunset drinks at a rooftop café – Café de France offers great views of Jemaa el-Fnaa. Watch the square glow under the sunset light.

Day 2: Gardens, Museums & Souks

Morning

  • Jardin Majorelle & Yves Saint Laurent Museum – Wander through the lush gardens and explore the museum dedicated to YSL’s legacy.
  • Le Musée Berbère – Inside the Majorelle Gardens, showcasing Berber culture and artifacts.

Majorelle Garden Entry Tickets

Afternoon

  • Ben Youssef Madrasa – A stunning former Islamic school with intricate geometric patterns.
  • The Photography Museum – An chill place for a bit of rest from the streets and appreciating photos and history of Morocco.
  • Souk Shopping – You earned some shopping time! Get lost in the winding alleys, browsing carpets, lanterns, spices, and leather goods.
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Day 3: Peace & Relaxation

Morning

  • Visit a traditional hammam – The Hammam in Mouassine is very authentic and has the best value for the price, or you can treat yourself as the desert queen/king you came here to be and take a more luxurious one.
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Afternoon

  • Le Jardin Secret – A peaceful escape in the Medina.
Le Jardin Secret

Day 4 (Optional): Cooking Class & Final Exploration

Option 1: Day Trip to the Atlas Mountains

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Option 2: Cultural exchange with cooking

Morning:

Moroccan Cooking Class – Learn to make your own tagine, with a guided visit to a local market to learn how to pick the ingredients!

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Afternoon

  • Explore Gueliz – The modern side of Marrakech, full of boutiques and art galleries.
  • Relax at a Riad or take a final stroll in the souks.

Departure – Head to the airport or continue your Moroccan adventure!

Practical Tips

Before I send you off into the wilds of Marrakesh, here are a few practical tips to keep in mind:

  1. Dress modestly: While Marrakesh is relatively liberal, it’s still a good idea to dress respectfully, especially in the Medina. Loose-fitting clothes that cover your shoulders and knees will always be a safer choice.
  2. Stay hydrated: It gets hot – really hot – during the summer months. Carry a water bottle with you and drink often. And no, the mint tea doesn’t count for hydration.
  3. Watch your step: The streets of the Medina are uneven and can be slippery. Wear comfortable shoes and watch where you’re going. Your ankles will thank you!
  4. Learn a few words of Arabic or French: While many people speak English, knowing a few basic phrases in Arabic or French will go a long way. Plus, it’s polite and a good way to engage with locals.
  5. Embrace the chaos: Marrakesh is a city that thrives on energy and spontaneity. Go with the flow, and don’t stress too much about sticking to a rigid itinerary. Some of the best experiences come from the unexpected.

Final Thoughts: Marrakesh, You Beautiful

Marrakesh is a city that will challenge you, charm you, and leave you with stories to tell for years to come. It’s a place where every corner holds a new adventure, and every meal feels like a celebration. Sure, it can be overwhelming at times, but that’s part of its charm. It’s a city that demands to be experienced with all your senses, and trust me, you’ll be better for it.

So pack your bags, brush up on your haggling skills, and get ready to fall in love with Marrakesh. Just remember: when in doubt, follow your nose. It will probably lead you to something delicious.

Happy travels!

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